There’s a Dutch vibe to Cambridge that I rather like — but also a lingering Protestant Cromwellianism that I don’t. These two factors are not unconnected, and the highway that once was the North Sea is not so far away.
It is not a bad town. It’s like they took Oxford apart, put it back together again in not quite the same way, and added a lot of Regency infill. Oxford is more mediaeval, Georgian, and neo-mediaeval, whereas Cambridge is mediaeval, Tudor, and Regency.
The Cam is slower, quieter, and more peaceful than the Isis, which again gives it the quality of a Hollandic canal. I suspect the punting is better — or at least easier — here than at Oxford.
And of course it is rather more spacious than Oxford, which is hemmed in by geography in a way that Cambridge isn’t.
But it is also eerily quieter. A smart restaurant on a Thursday night was dead by half ten, and the staff refused our plaintive request for a second round of Tokay. (Protestantism.)
A fine town as some of us have had the privilege of knowing from experience
I was in Oxford only a week ago, seeing two friends, both of whom are Fellows of All Souls. My visit there was an oasis of calm and discreet order. The public Oxford is now an unmitigated horror of noise, tourists, slovenly students, and an unending parade (a slow one) of autos driven by ever more frantic seekers after a place to park, and damn the expense.
Give me Cambridge any day.
All Souls is a great delight.
Refusing a refill of Tokaji? Outrageous!..