New York University is a very odd fish. It was founded (as the University of the City of New York) in the 1830’s as an academic refuge for the city’s Dutch Reformed and Presbyterians opposed to the very Episcopalian flavor of Columbia College, though it was never officially aligned to either denomination. Around the turn of the century when Columbia moved uptown to a brand spanking new beaux-arts campus NYU decided to follow suit by moving even further uptown and building their own classically-inspired campus. They kept their buildings in Greenwich Village, however, and by the 1970’s found the Bronx campus (University Heights) to be a burden on the old chequebook and sold it to the City.
In the meantime, NYU was known (and pretty much had been since it was founded) as a “commuter school”, which is to say that most (though not all) of its students were from around the metropolitan area who travelled from home to school and back again. This has completely changed in the 1980’s, as graduates who had done well for themselves (and other philanthropists) began donating large sums to NYU and it remade itself in the image of the normal residential university (again, like Columbia). Of course, having forsaken their proper campus they were stuck with a number of buildings around Greenwich Village and so pretty much began to buy up any building of any size that came onto the market in the neighborhood. [A commenter on Curbed.com says that NYU is probably the largest landowner in the City after Trinity Church. The largest landowner is actually the (Catholic) Archdiocese of New York, followed by Columbia University (which happens to own Rockefeller Center, among other things). After that, I’m not sure but NYU probably has more land, while I would think Trinity Chuch probably has higher returns for the particular land they own.] NYU is now an almost entirely residential university in that even if its students are not living in dorms they are almost certainly not living with their parents nearby. Indeed, the proportion of native New Yorkers has fallen while those from other states and countries has risen markedly.
I’ve had a fair amount of experience with NYU. According to facebook.com I have seven friends there, though one spent his freshman year there and wisely thought “This place is for suckers” and transferred to Georgetown, while another friend (now graduated) never bothered to join the Facebook. Anyhow, in my final year of high school I had a good friend who was a year older than me (a Holy Child girl, troublemakers all) who went to NYU. Most weeks I would head down one afternoon after school (always Mondays actually; I’m a creature of habit and it suited her schedule) and have dinner and, to use the parlance of our times, “hang out” and “chill” until heading back up to yonder Westchester around 9 o’clock. As you can imagine, one met a fair number of NYUers during such perambulations and I have to say, though the young lady in question did have a pretty roommate from Connecticut (a ‘Darienfrau’ as Igby Slocum would say, though she was actually from Guildford), I not even once met a single person with whom I might want to voluntarily spend any of my time. They were, to a man, boring, self-obsessed nitwits, completey devoid of anything interesting. Though (I’m told) a number of Columbians were irate at me for having described their academy as “a fallen institution”, fallen though it is Columbia is still better than NYU. I have not nearly spent the same amount of time at Columbia as I have down at NYU and yet I’ve met interesting people from there. Also, my mother works at Columbia and though she likes to tell many hilarious stories of the freaks she has met amongst the studentry, she also tells of a number of very kind, nice, and interesting students she has had the occasion to meet. I very much doubt this would be the case if she was working at NYU. The most interesting people at NYU are actually the security guards who, although they all take their jobs terribly seriously (and rightly so), are usually much better for some decent chat than the students. Of course, Fordham students are superb and beat NYUers and Columbians any day of the week.
But who, then, are the other NYUers whom I count amongst my friends? They still manage to be interesting folks. Strangely enough none of the eight Violets I know are friends with one another. In addition to the Holy Child girl and the wise Georgetown transfer, there is 3) a fellow Thorntonian (guy), 4) a Bronxvillian guy, 5) a hilarious girl from Larchmont whom I’m good friends with, 6) and 7) two girls, both Californian, I know from the summer I spent at Oxford, and 8) a girl who is a member of my Upper East Side circle of friends. The reader will note the preponderance of females. NYU is very much a feminine university these days; I mean, heck, their athletic nickname is the Violets after all, not the Fighting Irish. Of the guys I know, one’s only their because he’s exceptionally talented in the realm of film, another knew well enough to transfer away from NYU, and the third is a fellow Thorntonian (Thorntonians are known for either surviving in adverse situations or cracking up and going loony, so that accounts for his survival to date). Every NYU girl complains about the lack of available men since NYU predictably attracts a large number of men of… err… “alternative lifestyle options”. Naturally this creates a situation, like the Anglican priesthood, where being a male at NYU one might automatically be tarred with suspicions of being “of an alternative lifestyle” and thus a very large proportion of self-respecting young men are deterred from even applying.
But back to Curbed. So NYU is building yet another dorm and many are complaining about their precious neighborhood being turned into the quarter for spoiled students. Ah well. I’m not terribly troubled. Greenwich Village to me is part of Manhattan’s vast underbelly, a term I use only half abusingly. It’s just that most places below Gramercy Park seem either too crowded or too weird for me to live. It’s not that the underbelly is ugly, there are some beautiful buildings and some quite charming parts. But as the Brits say about France, “lovely place, shame about the people”. And you know, if you go for the SoHo/Chelsea/Village scene, then fair enough. Enjoy it all you like. I’m just an Upper East Side kinda guy myself.
Three sausages for breakfast, followed by reading from Gordon Brook Shepherd’s life of Empress Zita. Purchased my usual sugar doughring from Fisher and Donaldson and the latest Country Life from J&G Innes (all about London this week). The options for luncheon in hall were of asiatic origin so I boycotted and ate about half a loaf of buttered brown bread instead while reading Country Life in the Common Room of Canmore. There were a few people there; Adrian cataloguing the Catholic Truth Society pamphlets out of nothing better to do, Stefano sitting around waiting for his next tutorial, Liam lurking about, and “Ishmael” came in just to be social.
For a while we savaged Stefano because of his desire to show dirty films about Venetian courtesans in Canmore. Canmore, the Catholic Chaplaincy mind you, and Stefano is President of the Catholic Society. “Ishmael” and I slagged him off for being a dirty continental, which he just sort of brushed aside. We thought he was being a bit imperious, perhaps even episcopal, so we decided to turn the chair he was seated in into an impromptu sedia gestatoria. “Ishmael”, Adrian, Liam, and I each took one leg and raised His Foppishness aloft, processed him out of the Common Room, into the hallway, out the door, and into the street. We made as if we were going to give him the old heave-ho but eventually just put him down and ran back inside. Earlier he had taken off his shoes, and thus was stuck in the chair, in the street without any shoes on. By then we had gathered in the window to witness the poor man, yelling at us to carry him aloft “back into the palace”, gesticulating wildly, pointing out his lack of footgear. And we laughed. Oh, how we laughed. Eventually he got tired of our churlish manner and hopped back into the building, avoiding a puddle or two. “I hate you all,” he said, “and you didn’t carry me high enough,” then descending into ramblings about how at the next Catholic Society meeting the president should enter the room in a sedia. We resumed savaging him, and I had another slice of brown bread.
A little while later, I looked out towards the sea and the West Sands and felt them calling me forth. I had not gone for a walk along the beach yet this term, and it seemed as good a time as any. Though the sun was out I brought along my umbrella, just in case, and headed down past the Royal & Ancient Golf Club, past the putting green, and onto the Sands. Walks along the beach must be done at a very relaxed and leisurely rate. Every now and then I came across some driftwood or other such things that wash up on the beaches of Fife and gave them a little prod with my brolly and then, curiousity satisfied, carried along. I travelled about two thirds of the way down before seeking shelter from the breeze in one of the little dales within the dunes, took out some Marcus Aurelius that was hiding in my jacket pocket and had a little read. When I felt that my thirst for the wisdom of the ages was at least temporarily quenched, I decided to head back into town along the dune route. The beach is, as you would imagine, flat, whereas coming back along the dunes is a constant up and down through narrow sandy crevices with lots of reeds and tall grass on either side of you. If you ever visit St Andrews, you must go for a walk along the West Sands, and it’s advisable (if suitably agile) to walk at least partially along the dune paths.
Heading back into town, a Japanese couple asked me to take their photo in front of the R&A, and I duly obliged before slipping into the Quarto bookshop. The Quarto sells used books, and I had a good look around to see if there was anything new to peruse. I had a little read through a book on the history and traditions of the Channel Islands before heading back to hall, and here I am now, transcribing the day’s journey to you. Nothing left today but circuit training for the Boat Club, followed by a meeting of said august body. Hope it doesn’t last too long, else I’ll miss dinner. Some sort of pasta dish tonight; should be at least edible.
Previously: The West Sands
As I was walking to Mass this morning, I enjoyed listening to the crunch and brush of leaves underfoot that so wonderfully heralds the autumnal season. Today is one of those beautiful fall days when the sun is shining, the air is crisp, the wind slight, and the temperature slightly chilled but nowhere near uncomfortable.
Yesterday evening I had the pleasure of dining with Mr. Michael Fryer, who is surely the funniest man in all of Fife (at least whenever he’s in Fife; he’s an Ulsterman after all). We were both lamenting the fact that, in spite of St Andrews advertising itself as the university at which one is most likely to find one’s spouse, both of us are in our fourth year and remain as yet without prospective permanent ladyfolk. Right then, Dr. Brian Lang (the Principal and Vice-Chancellor, the man who runs the University) happened to walk into the pub and I considered walking over and demanding a refund, but the conversation turned to subjects greater in mundanity.
Another great thing about this time of year is the wearing of the poppy. No one seems to be quite sure when Remembrancetide begins and when the poppy should first be worn. In the absence of any official protocol to my knowledge, I usually judge that as soon as the Scottish Poppy Appeal start collecting money and distributing poppies, then is the time for wearing them. When it comes to Remembrance Sunday itself, I never miss the Festival of Remembrance broadcast on the telly, and neither should you. It’s a disgrace that it’s not broadcast on the web for those throughout the world unable to see it on their televisions. Still, it’s great to see so many poppies worn about town by young and old alike.
Later on last evening I had the added bonus of a pint and smoke with another Irishman, Mr. Alexander O’Hara of Galway. Alec and I are both fans of the pipe, and we enjoyed a good pint and some conversation a little late into the evening. Alec’s company is enjoyable because, like me, he is anti-social, and there are few things more enjoyable than being anti-social with other anti-social people. He’s in the midst of his doctoral thesis on Norwegian saints, which means he has to nitpick through various Latin manuscripts, translating them himself. Poor man! Still, he’ll have something to show for it at the end.
Well, unfortunately there’s work to be done so I must be off. A very happy All Saints’ Day to you all!
Here we observe the wastrel in his natural habitat: passed out on a sofa in a student flat at the University of St Andrews — the institution with the highest per capita number of wastrels in the British Commonwealth of Nations. In actual fact, Rob & Maria made an official visit up to Andreanopolis this weekend, and Abigail, Adrian, and Pamela graciously through a dinner party in their honour at Step Rock Cottage; Rob and Maria are exiled monarchs of the Catholic dinner party circuit.
The sad thing is this photo was taken before the party even started. I was exhausted from having woken up at 7:00am and spent the entire day rowing at Strathclyde Park that I just dragged myself over to the cottage on Gillespie Wynd at the appointed time in the evening and collapsed on the sofa in front of the crackling fire. It was sublime.
Below you can see Father Freddy, the resident chaplain at Step Rock Cottage, garbed in the appropriate chasuble for the liturgical season. He stands on the window sill blessing the herb garden all day long, or at least he usually does. At the moment he’s on his way to Downside for a retreat.
Has our former Gifford Research Fellow spent too much time considering jus in bello? Nay, rather John Lamont, aka Big John, sends these photos as proof of his efforts to combat the avian flu business that’s going round.
There’s the culprit! Duly nabbed by JL.
Looks tasty. Rather envious!
Despite the ban on students flying flags from their windows, I’m happy to say that four students hung Union Jacks out their windows in St Salvator’s Hall today to mark the Battle of Trafalgar. Two were on the front side of hall, two on the back. I took photos of the two on the front side. Mine is above, and the other one below (I don’t know to whom the room belongs).
George, Cockburn the Younger, and yours truly were sitting in the pub this evening when George got a text message on his phone from none other than 2Lt. W. Calderhead, currently serving in Iraq. It read something like
Very non-chalant. Very Calderhead. Anyhow, a package of goodies shall be heading Bill’s way quite soon.
Tonight a very intelligent friend of mine informed me that she believes I am a wastrel and that I have squandered my university years. I found this very interesting (and a tad funny), considering that it is my firm belief that I have gotten more out of my years at St Andrews than I had ever expected I would. Are there regrets, should’ves, and why-didn’t-I’s? Of course. Hindsight, after all, is 20/20, but I do not regret my relative inattention to grades.
It all comes down to standards. By whose standards does one judge a quartet of university years? I believe that there are a number of ways to measure success, or the lack thereof, during one’s time at university. I myself have never found the pursuit of academic achievement particularly fulfilling. This is not to say I think it is a bad thing; by no means. I have the utmost respect for my friends who excel academically. I always found, for example, David Taylor’s record of achievement particularly worthy of respect and admiration, especially considering he was neither a recluse nor socially awkward. But I think excellence in academics should not be the only way to judge a university career. Whether this is self-serving because I have not excelled academically I leave up to the reader to decide.
In my St Andrews years, so far, I’ve founded, edited, and managed a successful newspaper which has earned high accolades, I’ve co-founded a literary review, I’ve donated my time to committees for multiple terms despite finding it particularly distasteful and unenjoyable, I’ve been president of a private club (which involves not only working with a committee but coördinating and directing it while also having to maintain continuity with the traditions of the group and not peeve the members), I’ve had some pretty good nights on the town, I’ve made friendships that I know will last a lifetime, I’ve (lately) taken up a sporting activity conscienciously, most importantly I’ve done my utmost to be a good Christian as well as to note when, where, and how I have fallen short of that ideal in order to prevent future failings, and on top of all these non-academic things, I have learnt a great deal of knowledge. I don’t have the grades to show for it because I never felt the need to justify what I have learnt and how I have learnt it to an external examiner, besides which much (if not most) of my learning of history, philosophy, and culture during my university years to date has been outside the framework of my courses.
In my view, what I have managed to do in my years is worthwhile and should not be discounted. In comparison to getting 17s, 18s, and 19s in every course, while being social and doing just a few extracurriculur things on the side, I prefer my track record instead. I nonetheless think that both are admirable and worthwhile approaches to university. Contrarily, the young lady in question believes that the academic must be the only important yardstick used to judge these years, and consequently she thinks I a wastrel and strongly disapproves.
(I hope, dear reader, that you will not regard this entry as an exercise in ‘navel-gazing’, as they say. I am not a very self-reflecting, overanalytical person. I am not highly critical of myself, nor do I let myself off easily. It did not particularly irritate, offend, or wound me that I am thought by at least one intelligent person to be a wastrel, but I found it a good opportunity for debate and discussion and so have put forth my view accordingly.)
Clive jiving in the Mess.
I THINK IT WAS Cousin Jasper in Brideshead Revisited who told Charles Ryder to switch his ground-floor rooms for a more suitable arrangement. Charles, of course, failed to heed his elder cousin’s advice, and last night I couldn’t help but wonder if the inhabitants of a ground floor flat on Greyfriars Gardens wished they had been given a similar recommendation. An assemblage of young gentlemen, having moved from one pub to another and then making their way down Greyfriars stumbled upon an open window and, discovering that merriment was ongoing within, took it upon themselves to use that very portal as a mode of entrance. Quite succesfully, I might add, for it was a very wide window and not terribly high up. Upon gaining entrance, they proceeded to join in the merriment, which chiefly revolved around a triumvirate of good conversation, bad wine, and pretty young ladies. (I managed to inculcate one in the history of the Order of Malta). I ran into fellow oarsman Rory Mcdonald (who, despite his Scottish name, is from Norfolk) with his academic mother who dropped a coin in my beverage and told me I had to save the Queen from drowning by downing my glass right then and there. I took my time (God bless Her Majesty, but she’s only a Saxe-Coburg).
The evening had begun a few hours previous in the Chariots bar with yours truly, George, J.E.B., Ben, Tom Marshall, Rorie, Cockburn the Younger (worse for wear having been dealt a dirty pint in the Mess the night previous to celebrate his birthday), a rather confused ‘Dougal’ in black tie, Jon Burke (legend), Manuel, Cameron (President of Fin Fur & Feather), a chap named Will, and someone else I’m quite sure. Apparently J.E.B.’s going to reconquer India and I’ll be made Viceroy. This was decided as some sort of recompense for India going republican before Enoch Powell could be appointed to the viceregal throne. A brilliant linguist, it was his life’s ambition until ’47, and he was heartbroken when it became impossible. Ego sum linguiste très mal, but I don’t think I’d mind the job. Surely it just involves officially opening schools and hospitals and such, spending the rest of the time napping through cricket matches and sitting in a club sipping G&T’s and saying in a firm, authoritative voice “The sun never sets on the British Empire”. Comes with nice digs as well, designed by Lutyens. There are worse jobs, no doubt. Anyhow there was some bloody good chat, excellent banter.
Intelligence reports indicating that 1 Golf Place was overcrowded we decided not to make our way there to enjoy their two-pint steins, and so headed to the Tudor Inn (a rather townie pub) instead. There we ran into some Germans (Hamburgers, even) in town for the golf and spoke with them. Ed tried to speak to them in his broken German; somehow the term ‘Britischer Wehrmacht’ doesn’t seem quite the right translation. We tried to give them a bit of British culture by singing “I Vow To Thee, My Country” but it literally drove half the punters out of the pub, and the barman asked us to desist. It was then we sought out proposals for further enjoyment in alternative locations, and decided to move the forces southward accordingly. Twas then, of course, we discovered the open window in Greyfriars Gardens and good times ensued.
LAST NIGHT WAS, shall we say, a doozy. It began about half past eight when I sauntered over to the flat of George Ronald Valentine Hastings Irwin in Southgait Hall. (Astute followers of the Cossack will recall that I lived in the same building last year). George Ronald Valentine Hastings Irwin wasn’t in, as he was busy instructing young’uns how to kill, but C. was in since he’s been up visiting for the past few days. We cracked open some beers and watched the second half of an episode of Law and Order before heading over to Wyvern (HQ A Sqd, TUOTC) for some Wednesday evening revelry in the Mess.
The Mess, as we all know, is an oasis of old-school fun in our ever-changing world. Eventually a poker game broke out in the anteroom; an entertaining little melée involving yours truly, the Infamous C., George Ronald Valentine Hastings Irwin, Phil Evans, Cockburn the Younger, Alex Findlay, and a chap named Will. Now, I am a rubbish poker player and so accordingly am I a rare poker player, even more so if money is involved. Nonetheless, the buy-in was cheap so I gave it a go, failed miserably but bought in again and twas then that Fortuna began to smile upon my adventures. C. is quite proud of his poker-playing abilities, but I managed to bluff him into betting everything he had then hit him with the nasty surprise of my triumvirate of aces. Kicked out of the game by Cusack – that’s got to be embarassing. The man looked as if he’d just been told his prize-winning horse had just been eaten by an erstwhile Chechen terrorist who mistook it for one of the King’s Troop. He went back into the Mess in hopes of elevating the chat there (a handfull of souls had wandered into the anteroom informing us of the poor state of chat next door). A little while afterwards I managed to goad George into a large stake and deprived him of it quite readily. There was nothing on the table but I had ace-9, he had ace-2. Bummer for him!
There I was, drunk as a lord and rich as a Russian oligarch (or would’ve been if the chips were oil company shares). The others slowly ran out of capital and it was finally down to George, Alex (or was it Phil?), and yours truly. I was in the lead and decided to play it safe, but Phil (I think it was Phil, Alex was out earlier) went all in against George and lost, putting Georgie boy in the lead. (No, actually it was Alex, not Phil). We agreed to end at a quarter to 12:00, and so did, splitting the meagre winnings proportionally betwixt the two of us. Cockburn the Younger was quite upset with my victory and kept grunting “bloody colonial!” much in the same vein as Cockburn the Elder would were he present. Fine game, fine game.
We crossed the hall to return to the last few minutes of Mess time and witnessed some forfeits in process and joined in some bawdy singing. Now at midnight the bell’s rung, the glasses are put down, the Sergeant Major yells and the fun’s over. And had that been the end of the evening it still would’ve been a splendid one… were it not for those two words: after party. Now, that after parties can be splendid things I will certainly concede. But in my old age I prefer to be in bed reading E. Digby Baltzell by 11:00 and here it was, past midnight, and I was still out. Nonetheless, being taken by the festive spirit and with C. being up I thought to myself “After party? What the hey! Why not…” And thus a procession of students varyingly attired in camoflouge uniforms, blue blazers, or tweed jackets snaked its way towards the flat in Wallace Street shared by OCDT Charlie Hazlerigg and WOCDT Jen Stewart.
We were greeted by a little white terrier named Helen I think, though I referred to it constantly as Mackintosh for reasons no longer contained within my knowledge. It was a good after-party with some good chat and I’m not quite sure what time it was when I left, but I think it may have been nearly two in the morning. Somewhere in this equation I ran into a gaggle of gowned debaters, Miss Jennings among them in her gown of office as Education Officer of the Students Association. I confiscated the gown, donned it myself, and apparently, flailing my arms about and running around, announced to all of South Street that I was the Education Officer until Henry Evans (sometime head of the Conservative and Unionist Association) re-requisitioned it and returned it to its rightful bearer. We also ran into some Australians who agreed with me that Boston is a very silly place. I’m told that was around 2:00am.
Curiously as I finally made my way back to Sallies, I ran into Dr. Jens Timmerman. He had only just left Edgecliffe (the home of the School of Philosophy) and was on his way home. Dr. Timmerman is absolutely brilliant. One half wonders what he was up to in his office, with his 1925 Triumph typewriter, Keble College straw boater, and deep crimson doctoral cap and gown from the University of Göttingen. Musing on Kant, no doubt. (Dr. Timmerman is an expert on and devotée of Kant). I’m sure I’ll see him at the Kens club dinner on Saturday.
And then, finally, home, sleep, and the comfort of one’s own bed. There are few things as priceless as that.
Dear friends, I have been absent from the “world wide web” of late owing to technological discrepancies. Rest assured by health and faith are still strong. No doubt you have felt a distinct lack during the past few days, which I hope to remedy by showing you a few photos of the locus in which my quotidian adventures take place.
Above is the view from the reading ledge by my window. A rather nifty thing, which obliges the requirements for some occasional fresh air along with an advantageous location from which to glance down upon the Principal’s Lawn (There’s a fine if he catches you treading on his little green patch).
Sunset from the Cusack chamber. (more…)
The New Criterion‘s Stefan Beck (black iced coffee, no sugar) has an excellent little ditty in National Review on a little brouhaha up in Hanover, New Hampshire. It makes me somewhat glad that I go to a university where religion is generally met with the rolling of the eyes or a quick nap rather than modernist ire and indignation.
Today is the first Sunday and term and so after breakfasting in hall (a modest meal of bacon, hash-brown, and apple juice) I donned the old three-piece and gown and hopped over to Chapel for the first service of term. Chapel was packed to the brim almost, a very good showing, and as the Principal entered the Chapel following the mace-bearing Bedellus he had a very self-satisfied chagrin on, and nodded to himself no doubt reflecting upon the ancient glories of our university.
We were sadly informed that a student had died over the summer, killed in a car crash in France. Strangely enough, the same thing happened the summer before last when a very popular student died in a crash in Provence.
Other than that sad news, the service was of the usual feel-good traditional mainline psuedo-Protestant ilk that they are at St Andrews, the most interesting interesting part of which was when the University Chaplain, the Rev. Dr. James Walker, announced that our new hymnals had yet to arrive owing to a strike at the plant in Finland where they’re printed. I ran into J.E.B. tweeded and gowned, as we were exiting the service and he inquired as to whether I was “seeking religious inspiration when I had my eyes closed during the sermon or whether I was just nodding off.” I will leave our readers to guess.
Afterwards, instead of the usual post-chapel sherry in the Hebdomadar’s Chamber, the Principal hosted a little reception in Lower College Hall (from which, photographs above and below). (more…)
Part the First: In Which Cusack Takes to the Rails
The great St Andrean, Russell Kirk, despised the automobile, calling it ‘the mechanical Jacobin’. I am not altogether inclined to agree but the late Dr. Kirk and I are in accordance with one another over the pleasures of travelling by rail. It is seven hours direct from Leuchars Junction to London King’s Cross, but a pleasant journey nonetheless.
We departed Leuchars on time at 9:30am and stopped at Edinburgh Waverley at 10:32. From the north, the train crawls into the city beside the massive dark crag of Edinburgh Castle, after which the spires of the Mound come into view. By 11:30 we were in England, passing by Berwick-upon-Tweed, the municipality which has the strange situation of being a Scottish town but on the English side of the border. Just two minutes before midday, 300 miles north of London near a town called Acklington I discovered, upon looking outwards from my seat, that the horses of this region have taken to wearing cloaks. Remarkable.
From the route of the railway, the passenger has the advantage of being able to see both Durham Cathedral and York Minster (in southerly succession) and then finally Peterborough Cathedral, which I’ve always thought looks rather awkward. We finally trawled into King’s Cross a few minutes after 4:00pm, and I was slightly cross to see the London Underground ticket machines do not accept Scottish bank notes, forcing me to wait in line and deal with a real, live, terse, and unappreciative human.
Part the Second: In Which Cusack Visits the Travellers Club
Having settled in where I was staying, I scurried off to the Travellers Club on Pall Mall (stopping along the way only to get a prayer in at the Oratory) for the little affair which, in fact, was the reason for my journey down to London. It’s a beautiful club of a not-overwhelming size with a beautiful staircase, the kind of which one feels ought to be ascended slowly and with dignity. (The Drones it is not). The party was held to proclaim the U.K. launch of the New Criterion in the hopes of furthering the renown and appreciation of the greatest cultural review in the English-speaking world in the land which brought forth the very language. We had, I believe, nearly two hundred people in the library of the Travellers Club during the course of the evening, some familiar faces but more often very familiar names to which I can now assign faces. One of the first folks I met was the doctor and writer Anthony Daniels (also known as Theodore Dalrymple) who has just left England to live in France (in the Ardeche, was it?). There were also, among others, the Obituaries editor of the Daily Telegraph (who won’t smoke filtered cigarettes), the Rev. Peter Mullen, social commentator and Chaplain to the Stock Exchange, and the rather charming Paul Dean, Head of English at the Dragon School in Oxford, with whom I enjoyed conversing. Fellow St Andrean Merrie Cave of the Salisbury Review and I discussed how smoking has replaced sex as the ultimate taboo in the eyes of universities today. Roger Scruton couldn’t come, because he’s just moved to Virginia hunt country, of course.
Afterwards, James Panero having highed off to the Athenaeum, Dawn Steeves coralled a number of us into cabs destined for the Windsor Castle pub in Notting Hill where we continued to debate, agree, disagree, digress and whatnot on into the night. Eventually I decided I had consumed enough red wine and dark ale and called it a night myself.
Part the Third: In Which Cusack Enjoys the Company of Old Friends
On the morning of the next day I met Chris C. (St Andrews ’05) for coffee on High Street Kensington. C. and I disserted all the latest news, and I enjoyed hearing about his latest (mis?)adventure before we headed to Nilene Hennessy’s flat to enjoy a pork roast with potatoes. Nilene was out, but after our luncheon we met her and her younger sister Donalyn for more coffee. Donalyn is currently studying veterinary pharmacology.
AC: “So are there any major differences between veterinary pharmacology and human pharmacology?”
DH: “Well, it’s for animals.”
We all tarried a while, but eventually I headed towards my next appointment, amply relayed to yourself in…
Part the Fourth: In Which Cusack Goes A-Churching
A little after 4 o’clock, I met up with Ed Henley, another fairly recent St Andrews graduate, in the narthex of Westminster Cathedral, where he currently lives and works. Shamefully, I had never before visited the Mother Church of Catholic Britain in all its glory. After taking tea in a sort of lounge within the Cathedral complex, he took me on a grand tour of the place. Around the nave, the side chapels, down into the crypt, and even up into the rafters. Interestingly, Ed tells me that there was originally supposed to be a Benedictine congregation at the Cathedral, and strangely enough the monks’ cells were built atop and overlooking the nave. You can see little balconies for each cell hanging off the sides of the nave. Of course, it was a terribly impractical idea, owing to the many, many circular stairs the inhabitant would need to climb to reach his cell, and at any rate such a foundation was never actually started.
The sacristy is massive, and Ed was eager to show off Westminster’s cappe magne. “Even got the winter one,” quoth Ed, “with all the fluff.” Nice dalmatics as well.
The mosaics, at least those which have been completed, are amazing. The Chapel of St Andrew even has a mosaic depiction of the town of St Andrews above the arms of the Marquess of Bute. (A poor view of it can be found here). The majority of the mosaic work is unfinished, and would presumably take years and years, not to mention millions and millions of pounds to complete, however some plans are being drawn up and considered. “We’re rather hoping the Americans will pay for it,” Ed explained. “There’s a tendency for Americans to just sort of pop in one day, fall in love with the place, and donate a few million.” (The American Friends of Westminster Cathedral is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization, and thus contributions are tax-deductible for those interested. See here).
I attended the choral vespers in the beautiful Lady Chapel, and stayed for the following Mass in the main sanctuary, which was offered in a resplendently reverent and sacred manner. Westminster Cathedral is a beautiful place, physically ablaze with Christianity, and, like the Church, as yet unfinished. I rather fell for the place and feel obliged to visit it again.
Part the Fifth: In Which the Churching Continues
My last event in London was meeting up with Tori Truett (yes, another St Andrean, but one of the most delightful) that evening for the inaugural meeting of the Brompton Oratory’s youth group (ages 18-35, I think). Frs. Rupert, Julian, and Michael gave brief chats about their hopes for the group and the general shape of future events and then food and drink were enjoyed by all. Met some interesting folks including an Oxford friend of John Lamont, a Canadian from Vancouver, and a chap named Vandenberg (can’t recall his first name) who’s sister just graduated from St Andrews and has ten siblings! Now that’s what I call the Catholic response to the Culture of Death! Someone’s got to outbreed the heathen.
Finale
Back up to Scotland today, though I met with no cloaked members of the equine species on the return journey. A giant rainbow, however, arched across the sky just a bit past Ladybank a few minutes before reaching Leuchars and taking a cab back to St Andrews. A very pleasant journey, and hopefully one that can be made again soon.
The view from Nilene’s kitchen.
C. (seen with Telegraph report on latest Zimbabwe tyranny) got the shirt in Alabama. Folks in the States keep asking him if he’s from Rhode Island.
Unfortunately these are basically the only photos I managed to take whilst I was in London.
The forecast for St Andrews. Gloom and dreariness with a 90% chance of gray.
Tonight at dinner we frightened the bejants and bejantines (first years) with our knowledge of random facts and history and the Ik tribe of Africa and even managed to engage one of the more comely new maidens in a plot to kidnap the Principal in order to reverse the creation of the new ‘Film Studies’ department and to get a smoking room for Sallies (St. Salvator’s, our hall). After dinner wound to a close we exited our splendid stained-glass-laden wood-panelled dining hall and headed to Jason Dunn’s room for some sherry. He has a very nice decanter and set he picked up dirt cheap from a charity shop. I’ll have to give them a browse sometime soon.
I also got a chance to catch up with Nicholas Vincent at his new abode on Greyfriars Gardens. It’s a beautiful and spacious place, “Victorian design but Georgian proportions” as Nicholas said, and I’ve actually been there before. Under the previous residents it twice acted as a sort of final locus for continued drinking after all the pubs and such had closed. I remember one night I ended up there with a small crowd including one of the wardens here at Sallies who I told I would buy two pints if he got me a place in hall (it worked), while Yaa’ra Barnoon was strumming a tune on the guitar, that most inferior of instruments, the exact opposite of the organ.
Tonight, after catching up via telephone with Rob who’s now teaching at Downside, the indomitable George Irwin, the most endearingly unpleasant person in all of St Andrews, had a little drinks party at which there were a number of usual faces; Phil Evans, Tom Kerr (PMC of the OTC), and Manuel Garces (Greco-Spaniard president of the Boxing Club), now shorn of his iconic sable locks, who spent his long vac cruising the Greek isles and lounging about (not bad). George begrudgingly allowed us access to a desirable bottle of whiskey which was left over from his sister’s recent wedding. (Apparently they were left with over 400 containers of orange juice, for the bucks fizz, and about 100 extra bottles of champagne, amongst other extras). I got a call from Jon Burke inquiring as to whether I was up for more fun and games, but alas the train for London tommorrow morning has encouraged me to call it an early night. Hoping to see a few old faces while I’m down in London, so it should be fun.
My room faces the Garden Quad (there’s a fine for walking on the Principal’s Lawn), and there is a good view of the college tower from the window.
The view out the window towards the rest of the Hall. More later on, now I must rest!
Last night I stumbled down into the city for the last time before I fly back to Britain tomorrow evening. I had the immense pleasure of taking a coffee with Adam Brenner and Dr. Nathaniel Kernell at Edgar’s Café on West 84th Street. Dr. Kernell, known varyingly as “the Good Doctor”, “Newbury”, “Mistah Lassitah”, and “the Genius of the Carpathians”, is the inimitable man who, in schooldays since past, had the task of teaching me Latin. (Our man Brenner is not a Thorntonian, but rather a Riverdale grad who had Dr. Kernell as a Greek and Latin tutor). His knowledge of subjects as varying as etymology, architecture, crime, and Jai alai is both profound and illuminating. Furthermore, he is gifted with a manner that is warm and inviting, if perhaps tempered by a tendency to ramble. The wandering tangents of Dr. Kernell, however, are not ad infinitum irritations but rather intriguing paths along which one picks up much more information, learning, and amusement than one would ever imagine. School would not have been the same without him, nor the quotations he bestowed upon our ears like priceless pearls. I foolishly only recorded a few in a little notebook I can’t find, but I believe Clara de Soto preserved more for posterity. I will have to get her to send me a few of the jewels.
Nonetheless dear readers, I’m back off to Caledonia tommorrow evening and thus of course it may be a few days before I settle in and get things organised enough to post again. I am, to boot, heading down to London pretty soon for the U.K. launch of the New Criterion as well. Fun shall be had by all!