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Y E M E R I C A N P S
Y C H O
From Starbucks to Sana'a
Recent graduate Christopher Cruden describes what
he'll miss most as he prepares for a nine-month stint in the most
primitive country in the Arab world.
Vol.
IV, No. 1, October 21, 2005
Civilisation
is a tricky concept. Some would say that Scotland is a civilised
‘country’. Some wouldn't. I, as an American, belong to the latter
group. But as a well-educated, handsome American I have a notion that
civilisation is probably best measured in degrees. For example,
Alabama, my home state, is not as civilised as, say, New York.
But Alabama is far more civilized than Mississippi or Louisiana.
God proved this by showing his anger at their uncivilised ways and
laying waste to them early last month. That is why I am slightly
nervous about spending nine months in Yemen.
Often described as the 'most primitive' of all Arab states, Yemen is
not exactly pictured on the same page in the dictionary as the word
‘civilisation’. In fact, I would even go so far as to say that Alabama
is probably more civilised. Probably. But this brings me to the real
issue I’m trying to confront in writing this article for that
much-lauded literary contribution to civilisation (OK, Scotland
rather). On this, the eve of my departure from Britain, I want to list
the things I will miss about civilisation and my reasons for missing
them. I do this not only because I like to see myself in the Mitre (I'm
in there alot, check the back issues) but also to help all you readers
know what you have so that you don't take your lives for granted in the
Royal Burgh of St. Andrews and all over the rest of the Western World.
So here they are, in the order in which I thought of them:
• Alcohol: Yes, I know I will be
drinking a little in Yemen. Hope I don't o.d. on perfume in an alley
somewhere. It happens all the time in India.
• Starbucks: I have heard Arab
coffee
is great; it supported the Yemeni economy in the late 19th
Century. But I want that good, strong, and recognisably Aryan
symbol coupled with the fact that the money spent buying a single cup
could save a cat or dog or Somali from starvation. I love the
option of saying “No Fair Trade for me: I don't like helping people.”
• People: Forgive me for being
sentimental for a few sentences, but not quite a paragraph. I will miss
all of the people who make life interesting and fun in St. Andrews, as
well as the rest of my friends all over the Western wiorld. I really
hope this isn't goodbye forever, but if it is, know that I died proudly
while trying to escape decapitation.
Even if you don't appreciate the same things, perhaps you can take my
lack of them in Yemen with a small degree of pleasure, perhaps even
appreciate the fact that I will be deprived of something having gone my
whole life lacking little. I don't know what lacking these things is
going to do to me. I would like to think it will make me a better
person, but I doubt it. More likely, it will make me buy hemp clothing
and grow my hair long. Perhaps I will begin to have an understanding
with the people of Yemen and come back with much greater empathy. But
if I had to guess, I would say that it will make me more jaded, more
ridiculously cynical, and most dangerous of all, more knowledgeable
about this enigmatic people and region.
Please understand that I chose to go to Yemen of my own accord. Any
legal sentences passed on me there are the work of Shariah, not
British, European, Military nor United States law. This is not a
punishment, despite my attitude and your (probably well justified)
opinion that I need to be punished.
So, Starbucks, Alcohol, and People. Is that what you get when you boil
down civilization to my definition? If it is, its kind of sad I
guess. But think of it this way, Starbucks and Alcohol are
neither to be found in Yemen. More than likely (if the Yemeni
government knew them) most of the people I know too would be
banned. Certainly details of the various predelictions of a few
of them would get them killed or castrated.
So, as you sit there sipping your Costa Latte's, either being
introduced to my warped view of the world or just having your earlier
nefarious opinions reinforced, remember this: these things I'll
miss, and which you will continue to revel in, are all either not
to be found in Yemen, or if so, only illegally. So, would you agree
that Yemen is uncivilized? (Say 'no', then cite something you read on
Wikipedia).
I'll let you know.
Christopher Cruden is
studying and working in Sana'a for nine months. This may very well be
the first of a number of columns.
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