London, GB | Formerly of New York, Buenos Aires, Fife, and the Western Cape. | Saoránach d’Éirinn.

A Morning’s Journey

I crossed the Harlem River into Manhattan today just as Patrick Leigh Fermor traversed the Danube in his brilliant book, A Time of Gifts, which has immediately become one of my favorite reads of all time. Settling into my seat on the train yesterday, I opened my knapsack to utter shock and surprise—I had left my reading at home. The Leigh Fermor and P.G.W.’s Cocktail Time were resting somewhere in my bedchamber while I stared into the compartment of my bag, bare but for a photocopied page from the Art Newspaper and two (already-read) issues of the Hungarian Quarterly. These are the times that try men’s souls. Getting out of the city late in the evening proved even harder, as the bridge carrying the railway over the river was actually up for once (“First time in my life, folks,” the conductor informed us), leaving a steady backlog of trains awaiting their northerly destinations.

But this morning there were no bridge-raising complications, and the sky was a delightful, clear blue (soon to change) as we entered Manhattan. Thankfully, I had my two books; a bit of Wodehouse while waiting in Bronxville station and then Paddy Leigh Fermor on the train. After crossing the river, the train stops at 125th Street (Harlem) before submerging at 96th, taking the passenger down to Grand Central, that well-kept remnant on 42nd Street, reminding us that we too were once civilized. There, after taking a stroll through the market (Nürnburger sausage! Kaiser ham! Norwegian salmon!) you switch to the subway and hop down just one express stop on the 5 train.

Just half a dozen steps after emerging from Union Square station I saw a speck of white fall from the sky, and then another, and another. So it began: the first snowfall of the year. And, I might add, a New York record for the latest snowfall. (January 10th? No, there was no white Christmas for us this year). Two children on the swings in the playground ecstatically proclaimed their approval at the opening of the heavens. Wandering through the farmer’s market in the square, I picked up an herb focaccia bread I thought might be particularly enjoyable, and it complimented the exceptionally tasty Tuscan vegetable soup I had for lunch. The snowflakes swirled above the square and fell down on all the market-goers and the folks walking on Broadway as I marched up to work. And yet, how fleeting! In the few steps from the front door to the elevator, the white snow had already melted and merged into the green of my loden coat. Very well, Mother Nature. Very well.

Published at 8:07 pm on Wednesday 10 January 2007. Categories: Books Journal New York Tags: , .
Comments

Oh,

Dear Andrew. That was lovely. People think that living in big cities is awful. And though sometimes, I complain, I have had lots of opportunities to go live in the country and yet, here I still am, five years on, living in the heart of Toronto and never stop enjoying its offerings. Just off now to go do the second half of my work day from home. Will likely stroll down Roncesvalles and stop in at one of the many Polish deli’s and pick up a glorious veal or chicken schnitzel and a bowl of borcht for lunch. Nothing wrong with it.

— hilarityjane66 11 Jan 2007 12:15 pm

Andrew,

Bridge may have been open for the “new” bridge at 145th Street to be moved up river
for installation. Old one went out a couple of weeks ago. Tuesday night while at the Armory, I could see them working with the area bathed in light with a large floating crane. I looks as if they have raised the road approaches about 3 feet higher, wonder if they will making it any wider. It was It
looked very inpressive.

— Matthew Cusack 11 Jan 2007 12:28 pm

Cocktail Time is one of my favorites.

So, who made the soup?

— Mrs. Peperium 11 Jan 2007 7:07 pm

You and I were in Union Square during that same hour — too bad we didn’t cross paths.

Did you get the soup from Barocco’s?

— Alessandro 12 Jan 2007 1:12 am

You know, I can hear you narrating my life in my head as I go throughout my daily activities, always with your own personal take on things.

Just thought you should know.

— Miss Jennings 12 Jan 2007 8:11 pm

“Time of Gifts” is remarkable. I hope he completes the entire trilogy. Seems he is making every effort to do so.

http://books.guardian.co.uk/news/articles/0,,2025178,00.html

— scriblerus 4 Mar 2007 2:43 pm
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